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Winnie Spring 2023 Menswear Collection


Hot off receiving the Karl Lagerfeld Award at this year’s LVMH Prize, Idris Balogun brought his winning collection for Winnie New York to a gallery on the Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré. There, he staged a colorful installation, with clothes artfully draped over fishing lines in a setup inspired by the tapestries and paintings of Alida Rodrigues.

In setting out to explore perceptions of clothing, and the ways that we can ensure it’s responsibly produced, the designer found himself, literally, at the root of the issue and finally in a position to experiment with creating the fabrics for his clothes. Which is where Balogun’s network, from his years on Savile Row, Burberry, and Tom Ford, came through for him. A favorite mill in Italy instantly agreed to produce a silk cotton blend, as well as a small crop of linen, which took eight weeks from seed to fiber.

The result is 24 looks—which the designer calls a couple dozen flowers for his muse—with a colorful array of bomber jackets, trousers, and blazers, all produced from that micro-crop of linen and overdyed in vibrant hues of orange, green, and purple. And there was wiggle room for a serendipitous mistake or two. One example: a gradient top that didn’t turn out as expected, but the designer decided to run with it anyway.

“I believe in natural chaos,” Balogun offered. “You have to leave room for natural mistakes to happen. Those are the best ideas.” The only problem now, he allowed, is if Winnie pulls in too many orders. Every young designer should have such issues, but it just goes to show what can happen when you follow your star.



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