Family

Rosie Assoulin Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection


Rosie Assoulin hasn’t shown a new collection since March 17th, 2020, though it’s been even longer since she’s done so in person. That fall 2020 collection made it to Paris, but she and her husband Max, the brand’s CEO, made the wise choice to stay in New York as a strange virus descended on Europe. Eighteen months later, she was back in Paris working double-duty: taking IRL appointments in a courtyard showroom and Zooming with editors like this one who remained stateside.

Many of Assoulin’s peers have released six to eight collections during the pandemic; she was still making clothes, but didn’t feel inclined to unveil a full-blown collection. She and her husband have been busy on the business side of things: In May, they formed a partnership with HIM Co. (formerly Onward Luxury Group) to scale the label in Europe and Asia. The most noticeable change for spring 2022 was the expansion into vegan leather shoes, like a preppy new sneaker, and new unisex sweaters intarsia’d with the brand’s graphic, Sol Lewitt-like logo.

What stands out most is the collection’s surprising anchor motif: Several looks feature bandeau tops knitted in the curvy shape of an anchor, while a crisp white dress had one cut away at the ribcage. Other pieces came in watercolor anchor prints or with beaded fishing lures dangling from the sleeves; in a subtler twist, a white cotton gown had an oversized sailor collar fanning down the back.

If this were anyone but Assoulin, the nautical theme might feel silly, if not kind of random. Instead, these pieces felt reliably light and charming. Assoulin’s strength lies in the delicate balance of quirk and ease, novelty and function, humor and polish. There’s always a story behind her curiosities, too: The sailing idea came from her kids’ favorite book, Amos and Boris. It got her thinking about going on a far-flung adventure again, but staying firmly rooted—er, anchored—in reality.

The looks that captured that feeling best had a DIY feeling about them, in that you could twist and style them multiple ways. An ivory evening coat was cut with sashes in the front, to be left loose or tied in a bow, while a glittery one-shouldered gown was shown over black trousers, Assoulin’s signature twist on black tie.

Other looks got more inventive: The skirt of that white cotton gown could be removed to become a shorter day dress, ditto a trench that unbuttoned into a cropped version. A shimmery coral bustier dress came with an attached matching shirt, inspired by the best-selling “one thousand ways” sweater Assoulin launched last year, which merged a cable-knit camisole and shrug. As for the dress, you could wear the shirt open, tie the sleeves around your waist or loop them around your shoulders, or remove the shirt entirely. It’s at least five looks in one, with five times the cost-per-wear power.



Source link

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

close